Things to Do at Ethnographic Museum

The Ethnographic Museum occupies a restored colonial building in Porto Novo's heart, its rooms filled with masks, textiles, and ceremonial objects that preserve the cultural heritage of Benin's 42 ethnic groups. Founded in 1957, the museum houses over 3,000 artifacts including royal regalia from the Kingdom of Dahomey and intricate bronze plaques that rival those in European collections. Walking through the exhibits, you can smell the old wood and palm oil that still clings to centuries-old masks, their carved faces seeming to watch your every move. Entry costs CFA 1,000 (about $1.60) and includes access to the traditional medicine section where healers' tools and herbs are displayed with their French colonial labels still intact. Visit mid-week when you can have lengthy conversations with the knowledgeable curator who speaks excellent French and broken English.

The museum is located in the heart of Porto-Novo, about a 10-minute walk from the central market area. If you're coming from Cotonou, shared taxis (bush taxis) run regularly and take about 45 minutes depending on traffic - they'll drop you near the city center. Once in Porto-Novo, most moto-taxi drivers know the museum, or you can walk from the main commercial district. The building itself is fairly distinctive with its colonial architecture, so it's not too hard to spot once you're in the general area.